THE COrset: A Sign of the Times

by Kimberly Keagan
January 16, 2024

The history of corsets encapsulates the evolution of fashion and societal norms. From their origins as utilitarian garments to the iconic symbols of beauty and restraint, corsets have left an indelible mark on the world of fashion.
 
Corsets have a history that dates back centuries, with their origins in ancient civilizations. The earliest known corset-like garment came from the Minoans of Crete, whose women wore tightly fitting bodices to support the bust and provide a defined and small waistline.
 
Corsets gained popularity during the Renaissance period in Europe and could be worn over ("stomachers") or beneath outer garments. At the end of the 14th century, France's Queen, Isabeau de Baviere, introduced a garment that adapted to the figure and was tightened by laces, sometimes in front and sometimes in back. The skirts were worn under the corsets, which were laced far enough apart in the front to show the skirt underneath. This corset was made of all kinds of materials and often bordered with fur and sometimes quilted.
Corset, Italian, 1770s
The Met at metmuseum.org.
During the reign of Louise XV, the corset was cut low over the hips, laced at the back with a busk of wood or bone in front. By the last quarter of the 18th century, the corset was two separate pieces laced under the arms. According to the prevailing fashion, these corsets were worn tight across the breast, pushing the figure up very high. Under Louis XVI, the corset became extravagant, often bejeweled and worn only by the wealthy.
 
After the French Revolution, fashion trended toward the woman's more natural form. Short stays replaced full corsets, didn't extend below the chest area and had little boning. These new-styled garments were perfect for wear beneath the popular empire-style gown of the period (think Jane Austen). By 1810, the corset à la Ninon was all the rage. One piece, laced up the back, without any bones, the busk alone retained the rigidity of the corset.
 
The stylings of Empress Eugénie, the wife of Napoleon III, brought back the stiff corset with a constricted waist, often only 17 to 20 inches (imagine that!), and emphasized hips, producing the hourglass figure.
 
The Victorian era is perhaps the most famous period in the history of corsets. During this time, corsets reached the height of their popularity and complexity. They were made with multiple layers of fabric and included intricate boning and lacing systems. The hourglass figure was taken to extremes, with waist sizes shrinking to tiny proportions. Steels with hooks and eyes completely took over for laces to close a corset. Although the convenience of this edition is indisputable, there were French corset makers who, as late as the end of the 19th century, insisted that by this change, the corset had lost all its feminine elegance.
While corsets were fashionable, they also faced controversy. Critics argued that tight lacing was detrimental to women's health, causing breathing difficulties, organ displacement, and even deformities. Medical professionals and reformers advocated for more relaxed corsetry, leading to "health corsets" designed to provide support without extreme constriction.
 
Corsets experienced a resurgence in the late 20th and early 21st century, driven by fashion designers and enthusiasts who embraced the vintage aesthetic. However, modern corsets are more comfortable and often designed for fashion rather than extreme waist reduction.
 
The history of corsets is a testament to the ever-changing world of fashion and beauty standards. From their ancient origins to their controversial heyday during the Victorian era, corsets have evolved to reflect the values and trends of their respective times.