The s shape Silhouette 1899-1910
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by Kimberly Keagan
March 1, 2023 Above: Lithographs from The Delineator 1899-1900
At left: Ladies' Reception Toilette. At right: Ladies' Tailor-Made Suit Around the turn of the 20th century, a significant evolution in fashion silhouette emerged, notably marked by the introduction of the straight-front corset circa 1897. This departure from the traditional hourglass figure aimed to promote a healthier physique, albeit through a reshaping that pushed a woman’s chest forward while accentuating a backward tilt of the hips, resulting in what became known as the curvilinear “S” shape, often referred to as the S-bend or Serpentine silhouette. Accompanying this structural shift were alterations in garment construction and fabric choices that further defined the era's aesthetic.
The adoption of the straight-front corset coincided with a shift in skirt styles, as hemlines began to flare out from the knee downwards. This flare was often achieved through the use of stiff cottons, which created the illusion of fuller skirts. Additionally, fabrics such as chiffon and crepe-de-chine gained popularity for their airy qualities and their ability to drape gracefully, contributing to the overall lightness and elegance of the silhouette. Despite the overarching trend towards a simplified silhouette, distinctions persisted between morning, afternoon, and evening attire. Morning ensembles typically featured high necklines and long sleeves, reflecting the modesty expected during daytime hours. As the day progressed into the afternoon, sleeves became shorter, and necklines opened up slightly, allowing for increased comfort and mobility. Evening wear, however, embraced a more daring aesthetic, characterized by lower necklines and often bare arms, catering to the social expectations of formal gatherings and soirées. Complementing the fashionable attire of the era were elaborate hairstyles, often styled in swept-up coiffures positioned high on the head. These intricate hairstyles were frequently adorned with ornate accessories and topped with voluminous hats, creating a striking and sophisticated look that epitomized the idealized feminine beauty of the time. This particular aesthetic was popularized by the illustrations of Charles Dana Gibson, whose depictions of the archetypal “Gibson girl” captured the imagination of the era and became emblematic of the prevailing standards of elegance and refinement. The Gibson girl aesthetic embodied not only a specific style but also a broader cultural ideal, representing a vision of femininity that combined grace, poise, and independence. Through Gibson's illustrations, this idealized image was disseminated widely, influencing not only fashion but also societal attitudes towards women and their roles in society. In conclusion, the turn of the 20th century witnessed a significant transformation in fashion silhouette, characterized by the introduction of the straight-front corset and the emergence of the curvilinear “S” shape. This era saw a departure from the rigid constraints of previous fashion conventions, with a greater emphasis on comfort, mobility, and elegance. Through the evolution of garment construction, fabric choices, and stylistic influences such as the Gibson girl aesthetic, this period laid the foundation for the modernization of women's fashion and the redefinition of feminine beauty standards. From the June 1899 edition of The Delineator
Above: Calling Gowns and Wedding Toilettes Below: Ladies' Fancy Shirt-Waist |