Fashion Glossary

If you take a look at fashion magazines from the late 19th century, there are many words relating to fashion that are no longer used today.

​Agrafe. Ornamental hook and loop fastening.
 
Aigrette. A cluster of tuft upright feathers, often the plumes of an egret, or jewels simulating feathers.
 
Balayeuse. A ruffle on the underpart of a skirt to protect the hem from dirt.
 
Bandeau (pl. Bandeaux). A decorative narrow band worn on the head or on the costume.
 
Barathea. A closely woven fabric of silk and cotton, or silk and wool, usually ribbed.
 
Basque. A close-fitting, jacket-like bodice, often falling below the waist.
 
Bertha. A wide collar, often made of lace, that coverts the shoulders of a dress.
 
Bouclé. A Fabric woven or knitted to produce a knotted or curly surface.
 
Brandenburg. A military-style braid worn as trimming.
 
Bretelle. Suspender-like
 
Bustle. A pad, cushion, curved framework of wire, used to push out the backside woman’s dress, thereby improving the figure and causing the folds of the skirt to hang gracefully.
 
Carrick Coat. An overcoat with three to five cape collars popular in the 19th century and mostly worn for riding.
 
Chemise. A woman's loose undergarment; a shift.
 
Chemisette. A sleeveless woman’s undershirt made of muslin or lace that filled in the neckline of a dress.
 
Corsage. The bodice or waist of a dress.
 
Crêpon. A material resembling crêpe, but not so thin and gauzy, made of wool or silk, or of silk and wool mixed.
 
Crinoline. A cage, or hoop, that increased the volume of a woman’s skirt.
 
Cuirass. A form-fitting, long-waisted, boned bodice patterned after armor.
 
Demassé. A damask-like fabric, usually having a reversible figured pattern.
 
Dolman. A hybrid of a cape and a cloak, with a loose-fitting, cape-like sleeves that are wide at the shoulders and generally narrower at the writs. The sleeves are attached to the coat in the back.
 
Duchesse. A luxurious satin fabric made with an extra thick satin weave. With a high thread count, medium-to-full body, a heavier weight, and drape than regular satin, and a luxurious but firm hand,
 
Faille. A finely ribbed silk in a plain weave.

Fanchon. A cap or bonnet in the style of a kerchief folded on the diagonal to form a triangle.
 
Fichu. A triangular shawl made of lace or muslin, usually worn by women, draped over the shoulders, and crossed or fastened in the front.
 
Flounces. A wide strip of fabric gathered and sewn to a skirt or dress, often at the hem to help exaggerate the character and silhouette of a skirt. 
 
Frock Coat. A man’s knee-length overcoat, buttoned down to the waist, that draped over the lower half of the body like a skirt.
 
Frogging. Ornamental braid or cording that can function as a garment closure or be solely decorative; usually found on military clothing.
 
Gamp. A large umbrella.
 
Gigot Sleeve, also called Leg-of-mutton sleeve. A woman’s sleeve: very full at the shoulder, diminishing in size towards the elbow and gradually becoming tight at the wrist. By 1895, the style was so large that it required 2.5 yards of material.
 
Gros Grain. A fabric or ribbon with heavy ribs woven horizontally.
 
Guimpe. A waist-length blouse typically of sheer cotton and trimmed with lace or embroidery.
 
Illusion strings. Ties made of transparent silk tulle.
 
Knickerbockers. “Knickers” are full or baggy men’s trouser gathered and fastened at the knee. Usually worn as sportswear, knickers became especially popular among golfers female cyclists and, thus, became known as pedal pushers.
 
Lambrequin. A scarf worn over a hat as protection from the elements.
 
Lisse. A smooth, fine gauze silk, often used for trimming.
 
Mantelet. A small cloak or mantle often overly trimmed.
 
Mantua. An overdress.
 
Matineé. A morning wrapper or summer cloak.
 
Muff. A handwarmer.
 
Paletot. A cloak, usually worn loose, with one or more cape collars.
 
Panier. A structure or device worn at the sides to extend the hips, provide fullness.
 
Parure. A matched set of ornaments/jewelry.
 
Pelisse.  A woman’s full-length coat with long sleeves and a front opening, often fur-trimmed.
 
Peplum. A short extension of a bodice or jacket flaring out below the wait over the hips.

​Plastron. Originally it was a metal breastplate worn under a coat of mail. For women’s fashion is a V-shaped front of a woman’s costume to resemble a breastplate.
 
Plissé. A crinkled or puckered effect given to fabric by treating it with a caustic soda. Typically in a striped pattern.
 
Polonaise. A dress, or coat-gown, with a fitted bodice and the fronts of the skirts are pulled back to drape over an elaborate underskirt.